Sarah Burton exquisitely distills Lee Alexander McQueen’s legacy into everything she touches under her helm as Alexander McQueen’s Creative Director, and the Pre-Spring/Summer 2023 menswear collection is nothing if not quintessential for the house. Tailoring is clean and traditional at first glance, but adjustments have been made to elements such as the lapel, shoulders and waist to pinch, tuck, accentuate and oversize the blazers for a contemporary look. Similarly, the use of utilitarian trading in PSS23 elevates conventional menswear into a darker realm, something we think Mr. McQueen would be proud of.
From blazers pierced with metal eyelets at the chest and shoulder to cigarette-thin tailored trousers that echo the hardware theme, this isn’t your usual black suit. Nor are the accessories, such as pouches, belts and other small leather goods, accentuated by the signature metal handle, buckle or whatever per accessory.
But for days off, McQueen continues such details by applying the same eyelet effect to essentials such as hoodies, joggers, a luscious leather biker jacket, ribbed sweaters, or for something really naughty, a black shirt with an accent of armor strung across the shoulders. Similarly, an entire outfit can be put together using the eyelet-covered Alexander McQueen Oversized Sneaker or Deck Lace Up Plimsoll, also available in black.
However, true to the house’s ability to offer something for everyone, PSS23 presents ‘Spring Blue’, ‘Lilac’ and a ‘Watercolor Graffiti’ shade for technical wear, everyday essentials, tailoring (arguably here even sharper and boxer ) and most impressively for the latter effect, on a range of streetwear-inclined outerwear, such as puffer jackets.
An element of bringing nature to the concrete jungle can be seen throughout the collection, and wrapping up in an Alexander McQueen uniform that perfectly evokes such a theme. From shirts in a gritty, utility-beige shade embroidered with nettles to a camo actually made from the McQueen logo, or perhaps workwear-inspired patchwork denim suitable for exploring the great outdoors, but in fact rather tailored made, all the clues for a wardrobe refresh are there.
View the collection above and shop Alexander McQueen’s Pre-Spring/Summer 2023 range online and in boutiques around the world now.
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